How to Install
How to Install 
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Step 2. Laying out and Cutting Tile
Tools you may need for laying out:
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| Chalk Line Tool |
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| Framing Square |
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| Pencil |
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| Straight Edge |
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| Carpenter's Level |
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The best layouts minimize the number of cut tiles, avoid using cuts that are less than 1/2 the width of the tile, and position cut tiles symmetrically (the same on both sides of the wall). Typically it is difficult to achieve all of these goals, therefore you will end up making compromises that yield the best results.
| Note: |
EXPANSION JOINTS
All tile installations must allow for "expansion joints." These are 1/8 in. to 1/4 in. spaces along the length where tile meets adjacent walls (room corners), floors, countertop meets a backsplash, etc. These will later be filled with caulk. |
FLOORS and COUNTERTOPS:
- Find the area center point and, using a Chalk Line Tool, snap perpendicular lines through it to divide into quarters. Check the intersection of the angles using a Framing Square; make sure they are square.
Before using adhesive, dry lay out one vertical row and one horizontal row in a quarter (see picture); allow for even grout lines and for "expansion joints" (see note above).
- Adjust the starting line to find the best layout. Pieces less than half a tile wide are hard to cut and are less visually appealing. If end tiles are less than half a tile wide, reposition the vertical center line. If the problem is unavoidable, try to position them in an inconspicuous area.
WALLS:
- Find the area center point and, using a Chalk Line Tool, snap perpendicular lines through it to divide into quarters. Make sure the horizontal line is level using the Carpenter's Level, and check the intersections of the angles using a Framing Square to make sure they are square. If tiling only partway up the wall, draw a horizontal stopping point, again checking for levelness using the Carpenter's Level. If tiling adjacent walls, extend the horizontal layout lines to ensure grout joints match across the walls.
- Next, lay some pieces of tile against a straight, thin 4 to 6 foot long piece of wood. Draw a pencil line on the wood at the beginning and end of each tile, allowing for grout lines up to 1/8 in. wide. This is called a "story pole" (see picture).
Hold the story pole up to the wall to see how many tiles are needed, adjusting it horizontally and vertically to find the best layout. Try to avoid layouts that create tile cuts that are less than half the width of the tile.
If tiling a bathtub, find the lowest point of the tub line and measure up from that point 1/4 in. to 1/2 in. (for an expansion gap) plus the height of one tile. This is your horizontal guideline (see picture). Use the Carpenter's Level to check for levelness. Then use the Chalk Line Tool to make a perpendicular line through your guideline. Use the Framing Square to make sure the intersection of the angles are square.
| TIP: |
For bath installations, tile up to the ceiling if possible.
Or, install tile one row higher than the shower head. |
Tools you may need for cutting:
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| Tile Nippers |
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| Rubbing Brick |
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| Tile Cutter |
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| Hole Cutter |
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- Place a loose tile atop the last full tile and position it to butt against the wall or corner.
- Lay a second loose tile over the first and align it with the last full tile.
- Mark the cut line on the "sandwiched" tile. Allow for grout lines and a gap of 1/8 in. to 1/4 in. where the tile butts walls and other surfaces. Due to variations in wall or floor runs, each tile should be butted, measured and cut individually (rather than taking a single measurement and cutting a number of tiles at once). For straight cuts, use a Tile Cutter. "Polish" the edges with a Rubbing Brick. Cut openings around pipes, faucet stems, etc. using a power drill with a hole cutter attachment.
Step 1. Preparing Surface
